CrossFit Equipment: Build Your Own Power Rack

What You Need to KnowCrossFit Equipment

Cost: Less Than $100
Time: 2-3 Hours
Difficulty: Medium 

Your CrossFit Equipment arsenal is not complete without a power rack

Actually there are a few other options out there in the crossfit equipment world…but this one is so cheap, so simple, and so awesome.

I did a lot of research in buying/making a power rack. I found a lot of good designs for homemade, but I found a lot of them were overdone and too expensive. Same with buying a power rack…way overpriced. So I built my own.

STEP 1: Buy the following list for you CrossFit Equipment build

CrossFit Equipment






Here is a list of everything you will need to buy if you are starting from scratch. Chances are you may have some of this stuff lying around already. As you can see from the first picture the design is very simple.

-SUBTRACT the gorilla glue. I didn’t use a drop of glue on this project.

STEP 2:  Make sure you bought it all(not the cheapest piece of crossfit equipment)

However this option is still WAYYYYY cheaper than commercial alternatives.

CrossFit Equipment           CrossFit Equipment





 STEP 3: Get to work (Build your frames: make your crossfit equipment come to life)

The rack can be scaled to the space you have available since the design is so simple. Just keep that in mind if you build one. I kept mine simple with minimal cutting so it was a little bit bigger than it had to be. I did not want to mess with cutting pipe and having to rethread it so my frames were built around the pipe. And of course like a majority of my crossfit equipment, it is rather study.

1st- Lay out your two 2×6’s then cut your two 2×4’s. What you are cutting is the upper support beam and the squat safety bar. Keep in mind your if you have a low ceiling you want to make sure your face won’t slam into it when doing pull-ups so keeping your 2×6’s at 8 ft. is up to you. Also, since I made my squat safety bar permanent, you want to make sure that it is low enough for you to go all the way down on your squat without any problems.

-I cut my top support beam and squat safety bar at 43″.
-My top support beam is secured by two bolts drilled through on each end at 45 degree angels.
-My squat beam is only secured by one bolt at each end.

2nd- Cut your bottom support beam. Mine extends well beyond each side of the rack. They were cut at 56″. The extra length adds support during normal and kipping pull-ups

-These too are secured by two bolts on each ends at 45 degree angles from one another.

At this point your frames should be built…and you’re almost done.

3rd- Your basic frame should be built. You may want to stand them up and see EXACTLY where you want to place your flanges for the pull up bar. I determined I wanted them pretty close to the top with just enough space for my chest to be above the bar and still have about 5 inches before my head would hit the ceiling.

-After you determine this you can add your flanges. My suggestion is secure a flange to one side then screw in the pipe. Then screw the flange on the other side of the pipe THEN secure it to your second frame. If you do it in any other order you are adding unnecessary work.

So your frames are built….

CrossFit Equipment     CrossFit Equipment   CrossFit Equipment





 STEP 4: Put the frames together (warning: your crossfit equipment is not ready)

-Put the structure together on the ground starting with the pipe as stated above. After you have done this you can add the back support beam as seen in the picture. It should be cut to whatever length measures between the two 56″ bottom support beams. Has your spectecular piece of crossfit equipment come to life!?!?! I know what you want to do….

CrossFit Equipment    CrossFit Equipment





DO NOT do pull-ups on this structure yet. She’s not ready.

So at this point you should have your basic structure erected and all the basic framing done. All that is done from here is a few extra support and brace beams for added structure support.

 STEP 5: Add Support (like we do to all of our crossfit equipment)

All the cutting from here on is at your discretion. Here is what I added for more support.

-Two 45ish degree braces running from the back support beam to the main vertical structure.
-Two top support beams. 1 mimics the bottom back support beam just at the top. The other was put in to connect the top of the structure from inside to inside.

-The next thing I did all depends on if you want to KIP in your pull-ups or not. Being a crossfitter, I do. So I secured my structure to my wall studs. This means I can kip, swing, and go crazy with out the structure moving. Some guys put weight on the structure to keep it from moving, but that gets annoying. Secure it to the wall and you’re done.

-Last thing is add your bar holders for squats. I cut mine about 10″ and secured them with 2 bolts at 45 degree angels. Make sure they are tightened down really well.

CrossFit Equipment    CrossFit Equipment




This was certainly an easy project. If you want any specific directions or if I missed a step just let me know in comments. I can give you any measurements and directions you need. I just wanted to give the pictures and the basic layout.


Been using it for months now

-400 lbs on the squat rack…no problem
-100’s if not 1000’s of pull-ups….no problem
-ring dips and muscle-ups…no problem

If you build this design with no glue, like me, just secure your bolts once a month and make sure they are tight. It should be good. This thing should last a good while and be the center piece of all your crossfit equipment…and if something fails on it I would certainly take the Saturday to build a new one. Speaking of if you are not mechanically inclined to build your own CrossFit Equipment I highly discourage it. I have picked up a few skills in my day and I trust my crossfit equipment. If you would not trust yours…don’t bother

Did you start with this project? Good idea, but now check out some others at the DIY Corner.

  • Colin McEachan

    Love it.
    Planning something similar for the garden, but taller to accommodate higher rings for muscle-ups.

    I’ll send it through when I’m done.



    • Jerred

      Awesome! Would love to see it!

  • Frank

    Did you ever use the 90 degree flat bracket? I don’t see it anywhere on it.

    • Jerred

      I don’t think so

      • Scott B.

        It looks like you did on the top middle suport. I think I see a metal 90 degree flat bracket instead of drilling through the top support into the end of the middle cross-beam.

  • Lisa

    Thanks for sharing. Just wondering why it was not built hard against the wall for support? Is this because of Kipping pull ups?

    • Jerred

      You mean all the way against the wall? There is a slight slant in my garage where the cement wad poured, about the only reason.

  • Stuart Braddick

    Looks good, what height are the squat safety bars at?

  • Aaron

    Can you verify that the steel bar is 43″ and not 48″? I can’t find a 43″ in pipe and plan to just make it 48″, but wasn’t sure if that left enough room for the barbell. Thanks!

    • Jerred

      I think I wanted 43 and got 48 as well.

      • Scott B.

        Is there any way you can confirm this? As Aaron mentioned above, I see yours has enough room to rack the barbell by a small amt, but I want to be sure that is with a 48″ bar and not a 43″ bar.

        • Jerred


  • boo

    If I were to use thicker boards for the frame i.e. 4×4, could I drill holes to adjust the squat safety catch or woukd it compromise the strength of the frame

  • Brad

    Did you ever consider a Galvanized pipe version of this rack? Thinking about building something somewhat similar to your rack, but with pipe. It would connect to both the ceiling and wall(possibly at two different heights, one about 8-9ft up and another about 3-4′ up from the ground) and would also have two vertical supports that are either drilled into the concrete, or put in cement buckets. Thoughts?

    • Jerred

      Great idea! I would for sure do that project. I think it would be great, what do you think the cost would be?

      • brad

        Actually trying to figure that out now. Lowe’s sells a 10′ pc of 1″ pipe for $20 and they will cut and thread it for you for free. Depending on how much the flanges and elbows/tees run, I’m guessing the total cost would be around $60-70.

        • nathan

          Did you ever build it?

    • Zak

      This sounds good. Did you ever build it? If so, how did it turn out?

  • Tracy Erman

    Curious – what would you recommend to secure the frame for kips if I am building it outside? Thanks!!

    • Jerred

      Can you connect it to a wall?

      • Tracy Erman

        No unfortunately…it will be freestanding…

        • Jerred

          I would build the wood, each corner, into the ground like fence posts.

  • Jay

    How much weight would this be able to handle? Would it be able to hold 700lbs safely?

    • Jerred

      700 lb squatter? I wouldn’t recommend wood for someone that strong.

      • Jess Heron

        You do know that houses are often built of wood, so it’s more a matter of how the stresses are applied. You just need to understand what type of stress, and design from there. Wood has great properties, so does steel.

    • Jess Heron

      You could certainly handle up to 700 pounds safely with a wood system, but not with this design (those hooks are crazy dangerous). I’m in the process of designing and building a power rack which will handle 500+ pounds dropped (WAY more than I need today since I’m a novice), so maybe I’ll post about it soon.

      • Jason Purvis

        I would really like to see your design Jess. I am not much of a DIY guy, but my father-in-law is coming into town and he loves working on these projects. He is not a workout guy, so having your design would be great. Long term I am looking at a Rogue Rig, but I want something affordable for the next couple years while I build my gym out. If you don’t mind, please email it to me at Thanks so much. On a side note, any ideas on implementing a dip station into this design?

  • Charlie

    What length is the bottom back support beam in the picture? In inches.

  • Christopher Rive

    Hi, thanks for all of this ideas!! What’s the diameter of the pull up tube you used?

    Thanks again!!

    • Jerred

      It has been awhile. I think 1″.

  • Pingback: No Squat Rack at Gym | Lift Bros()

  • TB

    Hi, Just curious how sturdy this rack is. I’m 6’1 and 110kg’s so thinking of upping the member sizes a touch to ensure a stable rack whilst kipping etc. Any thoughts/recommendations would be appreciated greatly.


  • Jackie Wheeler

    Would’ve been nice to mention the thickness of the bolts needed and not just the length. Got most of the frames put together before we realized the bolts we bought won’t fit through the flanges…..

  • Janna

    I’d like to thank Jerred greatly for putting this up
    here. I went ahead and built one for my
    garage and it’s working out great. With two
    small children, it’s not easy to find the time to get to my CF gym. With this and the small assortment of
    equipment I bought, I can slip out to the garage and get a workout in when a
    free moment presents itself…which usually isn’t until about 11:00pm. And I did it all for about what two months of
    membership fees would cost at my CF gym.

    I just thought I’d provide a little feedback. First, Jerred’s shopping list shows a 43 inch
    pipe. These pipes are usually sold by the foot, so Home Depot will have 24, 36, 48, inch pipes. Jerred actually built his at 48 inches, which he clarifies further down in this comment section. I built mine at 48” as well, but truthfully, I wish I had done it at 43”. Home Depot
    offered to cut and re-thread for free, so I don’t think it would be much of a
    problem to do so. At 48”, a standard Olympic bar just fits (as you can see in Jerred’s picture). It would be easier if I had a few extra inches on each side to rack the bar after a heavy set. Having said that, it’s only been a minor inconvenience so if you can’t get the pipe cut/re-thread, a 48” will work. But I’d recommend 43”.

    Also, I used 6 inch bolts, but they are way too long. I had to cut them off because they kept
    getting in the way. You could do the same, but buying 4 inch bolts would save you that extra work.

    I also added a lower set of racks so I can bench press as well. Works like a charm.

    Thanks a ton Jerred!! I hope EO3 works out for you cause I really appreciate the site.

  • Willie Harkins

    Just finished my build yesterday, and used it for squats this morning. I didn’t follow the advice of using the 43″ instead of the 48″ because I wanted the extra room for pull ups. However, I am curious if anyone has modified this or has any recommendations on changing the bar holders? I want to find a way to bring them in and feel safer when racking the bar, especially after a heavy set. Thanks

    • Jess Heron

      Hi Willie, I hear ya, those bar holders (I’m calling them hooks) look awfully dangerous. At least, put a piece of 2×6 on the post below them, with an angled cross-cut that matches the angle of the hooks. Set them under those hooks and fasten (glue and screw?) well.

  • Jacob

    Would it be possible to replace the 2 upper side supports with pull up bars as well?

  • John Samuel Boodoo

    so i did it, its amazing, i will post a pic and show what i did, i made it really tall tho, thanks for the assistance.

  • Leslie Piatt

    Thank you so much for this project!!! it’s worked out so well!!! We added the rings and those bands are to help me work on pull-ups that I also got from Rogue. It makes me so happy to come home from a grueling 12 hr day and know I can still do some lifting!!!

    • Jerred

      Great to hear!

    • Jess Heron

      I made some safety comments above about those dangerous J-Hooks, which you may find helpful.

  • Jess Heron

    Uh. Those ‘J-Hooks’ will break. The only question is when. As someone who was a professional carpenter for a little shy of 10 years, I can say that it will based solely on empirical understanding of the way wood as a building element works, or doesn’t in this case. What will happen is that the 2x will split along the line created by the two bolts, at the very least desirable moment. Hopefully, it will miss your kneecaps, which are worth more than $100 in materials. If you must keep this design, do yourself a favor. Cross-cut a 12″+ scab of 2×4 at the angle of the J-Hook and pin it (bolts again) just below the hooks, so that the angled face mates against the hook, and so that when you split the hooks by setting 200+ pounds on them, you’ll notice that they are starting to look funny over time. Hope this doesn’t sound too harsh. Cheers.

  • Thomas Foltz

    8 foot long 2 inches by 4 inches thick

  • Christian

    What if you didn’t want the safety bars for bailing out on back and front squats, could you leave them out?

  • Jerred

    The safety bars add stability to the rack. I suggest just putting them lower than you need, or do a diagonal cross brace where it won’t be an issue.

  • Scott B.

    I was going to ask the same question. The only caveat that I see is that the rack must be supported to a stud on the back of the wall. If you do not secure the rack to a wall and you put a lot of weight on a barbell on bar holders in the front of the rack, it may topple over due to the weight being “front loaded.” Honestly, I wouldn’t use the bench rack on the front that much anyways, and plan on securing to the wall when I build mine, so I don’t see a problem with it.

  • Afghanimarine

    7 months later and everything is holding up great. I wish I would have made the rack about 2 inches narrower because it is barely wide enough to rack an olympic bar, but we’ve done hundreds of squats on it and thousands of pull-ups. The box is doing great considering it is the first thing that I ever built, the rack being the second. The ball isn’t holding up as del, but after a roll of duct tape it will be around for a long time to come. Just don’t buy a $4 basketball and you’ll be ok. My 16 year old son just hit 305 on the squat tonight, so now we need to find more weight and build a prowler. Thanks for all of the tips.

  • sprrocket

    Triangles! Triangles in any structure make it much more structurally sound than without them.

  • William

    Could you add a j-hook for bench on this?

  • Jerred

    I am sure you could.

  • Kiwi overseas

    Cool wife you have